Vienna, Austria - Days 19-21

This is the final post for our Austrian holiday. 

We spent our 19th day journeying from Graz to Vienna by train again.  This time round we finally got a clue.  Prior to arriving at the station we searched for the right departure time that would get us on the RailJet train instead of the Inter-City.  Once we got to the station we bought first class tickets and checked exactly which end of the platform was going to be the first class carriage.  With ample time to spare we hopped on the train and thought we were doing real good till we found our seats and just couldn't figure why we would be seated separated (2 x 1 seating arrangement) as opposed to located at the four seater plus table.  Well we didn't think about it too much and just took the four seater.  An absolutely awesome ride ensued all the way into Vienna.

We shared this first class carriage with 3 other people
all the way to Vienna.  How cool is that?

Here we promptly returned to the Marriott Hotel.  Why go anywhere else when this was such good value for a 4 star hotel and the breakfast spread was yummo.  From here we also knew our way around and was easy access to the Belvedere Palace; the last major tourist site for us to visit.

Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere consists of two palaces, aptly named the Lower and Upper Belvedere.  Commissioned by Prince Eugene of Savoy the palaces were built early 18th century.  Built in Baroque style, the palaces are joined by Baroque park landscape, tiered fountains and numerous sculptures.

Lower Belvedere

Upper Belvedere

Today the Belvedere is an art museum housing arts such as Gustav Klimt's famous painting "The Kiss".  The three floors of art is neatly segregated into different styles.  Here you will find Romanticism, Medieval, Biedermeier, Historicism, Impressionism, Viennese Secession, Expressionism, Contemporary and Baroque Art.  Photography was not permitted inside.

A walk in the park even on a dreary winter's day is a must.  Whilst the water was turned off on the tiered fountains, you could just imagine how lovely it would look on a summer's day amongst the perfectly manicured gardens. 

Palace Sculptures

Fountain Sculptures
 

Garden Sculptures

Trini found playing hide and seek with her dad a blast and lots of running and hiding was taking place.  The cold wintry weather did not phase her.

Playing hide and seek and finding daddy.

Trini's version of hide and seek.

We returned to the hotel for that scrumptious steak with bernaise sauce we had earlier on in our trip.  We certainly weren't disappointed.

On our last day we had the foresight to enquire about taxis as I noticed a 12 euro surcharge for a cab to return from the airport.  The hotel offered their chauffeur driven car for a mere 5 euros more.  A uniform dressed driver assisted us into a brand spanking new Mercedes.  Now this form of travel I do like.  I am not much for budget, have never done backpacking but slot me into anything stylish and I will happily and gratefully lap it up.

Our return flight was uneventful.  What was eventful was the two weeks of jetlag I was dealing with.  Up at 3am, out like a light during the day.  It wasn't much fun but the holiday was immensely satisfying. 

Thank you to all who followed our journey through the blog.  Would love to hear your feedback either here or on Facebook if we are friends.  So long and see you on my next sojourn.

The Belvedere Cafe

Graz, Austria - Days 17-18

Graz lies 210km south of Vienna and it is the second largest Austrian city. Like Salzburg, the city is divided by the River Mur with the old town and its narrow cobblestone streets to the south and the new town to the north.

We obtained a guide to exploring the sights of Graz which was divided into three separate walks, being:

1. Through the old town
2. Through the old town, across the river and back
3. From the rooftops

These spectacular walks completed in 2 days are best illustrated through the lens as a photo-journal.

Walk 1 - Through the old town

Landhaus Courtyard 

An arcaded inner courtyard of Italian Renaissance, the Landhaus is currently used for state parliamentary meetings.

Herzoghof

Known as the "Painted House", the facade of this building was painted with frescoes in 1742 by Baroque artist Johann Mayer. The frescoes show the gods of Greco-Roman mythology.

Town Hall

Considered to be the heart of the city, the Town Hall with its dome, clock and corner towers has dominated Graz since the late 19th century.

Luegghaus

The Luegghaus is a striking building with an elaborate stucco facade. It is well complimented by its surrounding buildings and vibrant colours.

Double Spiral Staircase

This double spiral staircase built in 1499 is renown as a stone masonry masterpiece from the Gothic era.

Edegger-Tax Bakery

Crowned with a gilded double-headed eagle, this splendid wooden shop-facade is a bakery.  Confectionery from the Imperial era such as the Sissibuserl or Kaiserzwieback biscuits are a specialty and may be sampled.

Stiegenkirche

The oldest parish church, it is now known as a church for students which is evident in its simplicity and the modern paintings.

Cathedral

This enormous and imposing cathedral was commissioned by Emperor Frederick III and built as a court church over 26 years starting in 1438.

Mausoleum

The final resting place for Emperor Ferdinand II, who commissioned this tomb for himself and his family, is today considered highly important in terms of art history.

Walk 2 - Across the Mur and Back Again

Kunsthaus Graz

It is a fantastic and somewhat awkward modern building in the midst of historical and traditional structures. Along with the Clock Tower on the opposite side of the river, the Kunsthaus is Graz’s trademark. The building is used to house temporary and photographic exhibitions.

Mariahilfer Square

A square dominated by the Mariahilfer church, the monastery and the cultural centre of the Minorites. The church was built early 17th century and double towers were added in 1742.

Murinsel

The Murinsel takes the form of a floating shell linking the two sides of the river by footbridges. It houses a café and amphitheatre.

Schlossberg Square

The 13th century Reinerhof situated in Schlossberg square is the oldest documented building in Graz. The Schlossbergstiege stairs were carved into the cliff by prisoners of WWI. Originally there were 260 steps.

Walk 3 - From the Rooftops

Schlossberg stands at 473 m high and it is accessible by the abovementioned stairs, a funicular, a glass lift or a walk via Karmeliter Square.

A large Renaissance fortress stood on this mountain until Napoleon invaded Vienna in 1809 and under threat Graz surrendered itself. This impenetrable fortress, which is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the strongest fortification ever, was subsequently razed to the ground. All that remain are the bell tower and clock tower.

Funicular Railway

Built over 100 years ago the funicular ascends from the lower station at an incline of 61%.

Bell Tower

Graz’s famous bell the Liesl housed in the Bell Tower weighs nearly 5 tonnes. The special ringing mechanism that allows the bell to sound was constructed by two blacksmiths working at full tilt. It now rings 101 strokes daily at three separate times.

Casemate Stage

Casemates were sleeping quarters for prisoners. Today it is a stage used for operas and concerts.

Hackher Lion

Erected in honour of Major Franz von Hackher, who in 1809 together with a handful of soldiers withstood months of siege laid by the French.

Clock Tower

Striking the hour precisely since 1712, the Clock  Tower is Graz's landmark. The aerial view of the city and River Mur is breathtaking.

Rooftop views

Train journey, Salzburg to Graz - Day 16

If you have been following my trip then you will remember our stressful experience on catching a train from Vienna to Salzburg. Very swiftly we learned that for an extra 40 euros each, travelling in First Class would have alleviated all of our stress and we would have journeyed in style.

The train to Salzburg was via RailJet which is Austria's high-speed train. Where the route allows it, the train is capable of 230 km/h (143 mph). So there was no complaint with the train as it was brand new, travelled super-fast and regardless of what class you were in, the comfort was there. I just wish that we had caught the next one where boarding would have been relaxed and with plenty of time.

The very sleek and classy RailJet.

However, anyone would understand that the experience between First Class where you have space, generally your own cabin and are waited on is vastly different to Economy Class. With that in mind we obtain assistance from the hotel concierge to book our Salzburg to Graz train in First Class. Pleased with our cleverness we look forward to boarding the train and spending four hours admiring the scenery.

Again we arrived at the train station with ample time (with 2 suitcases, overhead luggage and a small child will do that to anyone), obtained our tickets and waited on the platform. Imagine our dismay though when the InterCity train arrived and all I could think of is "where is my RailJet?".

Yep, not too cool, neither was the interior.

But this disappointment was nothing to what was awaiting us on the train.  Again, incredibly clueless we had no idea where to get on for First Class so we found ourselves yet again, traipsing through the whole train because the First Class carriage was on the tail end of the train as opposed to the front like the RailJet train.  At this point I simply refused to move any further with all the luggage and child until I knew exactly where my seat was.  So John went searching and 10 minutes later he returned to inform me that we are actually in a six seater cabin. 

The train may not be modern but we have a cabin and space for our luggage.  As we enter the cabin we come across a 6'4" male who has taken one window seat and stretched himself and his luggage across to the other side of the window seat.  He promptly informs us that he is expecting four friends at the next station which caused my mathematical confusion.  Our seat numbers are reserved as opposed to taking whatever is available, although he tells me that there are no seat reservations - I'm confused but carry on.  It's a six seater cabin and there's four of us in there already but he's got four more friends to come.  I couldn't add it up but I live in the comfort that my seats are reserved because we intentionally purchased the tickets with a reservation and paid a reservation fee.  He and his friends will have to sort themselves out.

So I proceed to settle ourselves in and lifted Trini to put her on the spare window seat at which point this bloke tells me that the seat is reserved.  I said to him how is it possible for the seat to be reserved when he just told me that there are no reservations.  That means I can put Trini anywhere I like.  I got a little more feisty and promptly overruled him and dropped her on the spare window seat.  I sat down next to Trini fuming but thought we are going to be travelling together for 4 hours so perhaps we should at least aim for an amicable journey. 

I try to grab his attention whilst he was talking on the phone by touching his knee so that I could offer to move Trini when his friends boarded since I knew she would not be looking out the window.  He lost the plot at me.  "Don't touch me" and "You are so rude" and "You better move elsewhere" and "I will have you thrown off the train" are just some of the comments he was throwing our way.  Completely flabbergasted and unsure how to handle this, I started using my head and thought, first step just ensure that we are in the right cabin and discovered that the seat numbers were on the door and they were definitely reserved for us.  As a matter of fact he was sitting in one of our seats.  However, what to do, what to do....  I was raging inside and thought that I would burst a blood vessel but diplomacy is always my first step, avoiding confrontation with strangers was also a consideration.  I have a child in the cabin so can't get into an argument and the fact that he striked me as aggressive I was more concerned about our safety.

Well nothing like spending the next hour or so fuming and passing train stop after train stop and realising that these friends of his just aren't materialising.  Since it was a completely unacceptable way for me to journey, I went off looking for non-booked cabins that we could just move ourselves into.  I found a completely empty one, moved ourselves into it, pushed all our luggage in the way and made sure that no one else was going to try and accommodate themselves with us.

With this move, emotionally I settled down and we had a delightful journey all the way to Graz, with both Trini and I enjoying the window seats.  We had coffee and snacks delivered to us, an amazing scenery unfolded, did princess jigsaw puzzle bought in Salzburg with Trini and every so often found myself mentally replaying what transpired in the previous cabin.  We watched the bloke disembark in Graz with all his imaginary friends and I wonder what the hell just happened.  Was he that desperate to be on his own that rather than move himself with one small luggage he preferred to cross words with a family and create an unpleasant environment.  I have to pity this guy for his way of life.

What did I take away from this experience?  How I deal with a conflicting situation sets an example for my daughter and what I teach her, even if I was caught off-guard and actually didn't know how to handle it.  Blowing a gasket in public to push my own agenda was not going to resolve anything and could have created bigger problems.  That this world most certainly has a percentage of extremely unpleasant people and nothing I do or say will change that.  Thankfully, I rarely come across them.  Finally, it is my choice whether I let this event spoil it for me or find a way around it so the beauty of my trip remains intact.

At Salzburg train station.

Hohensalzburg Fortress, Austria - Day 15

An imposing fortress situated on a rocky peak 524m above Salzburg's Old town, Hohensalzburg has a history spanning 1000 years. Built in the 11th century during the wars between the Holy Roman Empire and the Papacy, the fortress was used as a refuge for the archbishops of Salzburg whenever they felt threatened.

Over the centuries and through changing sovereigns, the Fortress was expanded, artillery towers added, fortification walls built turning it into an impenetrable stronghold. By the 16th century the Fortress was taking on the character of military barracks and was no longer used as substitute residence for the sovereign.

In 1800 both the city and the fortress were surrendered to the French, however over the next 16 years it would have its dominion moved between the French, Austrians and Bavarians until Salzburg was finally incorporated into the Austrian Empire.

Always prepared for defence, the Fortress became the home of the Imperial and Royal Infantry Regiment No 59 until 1861 when Salzburg was declared a civilian city instead of a military city and the fortress was no longer required to play a major role.  Used as a military detention centre, barracks, transport centre, the Fortress ultimately became a popular tourist attraction.

In 1892 a fortress funicular was built to ferry tourists from town and a peaceful co-existence between the military and tourists flourished until the end of World War II when the Austrian army no longer existed and the barracks functions ceased to exist.

As the property of Austria, the fortress was leased to the state of Salzburg in 1953 for 99 years. Entrance fees finance the Fortress' upkeep and renovation programmes.

The impressive Fortress on its rocky peak.

As military history enthusiasts, John and I were very excited about our visit to the Fortress.  What we hadn't anticipated was the funicular to be closed and for us to have to ascend the 524m on foot.  Trinity took the stairs in her stride and marched on up finding a game in her every step.  I didn't think the climb was that amusing and with a huff and a puff I soldiered on.  I wished for the good ole' days when my fitness was something worth talking about.

The final trudge was at a 45 degree angle and I was relieved when we got to the ticketing counter until we entered and found that a further and steeper climb was still required to reach the Keep's main entrance.

We explored courtyards, the chapel, Keep, private apartments, bastions and absorbed the magnificent aerial view of Salzburg.

Ring wall around the Keep with a view of the main gate.

Small courtyard.

Chapel St George.

Chapel of St George's high altar (1776).

The tour of the Keep began at the gate room, an elongated hall erected between the ring wall and the Keep.  A broad stairway of red marble led to the first storey where on the east side a small retaining wall from the Roman era along with some artefacts were discovered.

The second storey consisted of the archbishops living quarters.  On display were middle to upper class household items including the archbishops furniture and the "golden treasure".  The treasure consisted of 78 gold coins which were accidentally discovered during restoration works. Minted between 1350 and 1430, the history of the coins and who it belonged to remain unknown.

Glazed tiled oven exemplifying the artistic flair
of 16th century potters.

Household item.

Carved pine box-chest (c1500)

In 1998 another treasure was uncovered when a triple-arched window was discovered.  The colourful frescos on the arches are as bright today as they were some 800 years ago when they were first painted.

Arched windows (c1300).

In the hall on the second floor, a central beam supports an intricately worked wooden ceiling and contains a display of pole weapons and armour.  Weapons such as spears and pikes were used for thrust; hellebarde with its axe to cut through armour plate; and hook to pull the opponent away or knock him down.  On the field helmet, breastplate and arm guards were used to protect them against injury whilst maintaining mobility.

The development of gunpowder in the late Middle Ages gave way to rifles starting with the flintlock. Effective in close combat the handgun was primarily used by riders and replaced the lance, battleaxe and poleaxe.

Red marble figure on the ceiling supports.

Field armour and weapons display.

A unique handgun with a small axe on the opposite end.

Moving onto the third storey we enter the archbishops' private apartments.  The richly decorated "Golden Hall" is a sight to behold.  The dark blue ceiling is embellished with gold discs that gives the impression of a starry night.  In order to expand the width of the room, four twisted marble pillars were installed to hold the ceiling aloft and a loggia was added on.

Golden Hall with the blue ceiling and marble columns.

The rest of the apartments maintain the same level of rich decoration.  A striking tiled oven, commissioned in 1501, is displayed in the Golden Chamber.  Used for heating, each tile on the oven is uniquely designed, creating a work of art.  The bottom third depicts fruits and flowers, the middle is composed of large panels each depict indepentent artwork and the top depicts saints.

Golden Chamber.

The tiled oven.

Detail of a tiled panel on the stove.

Finishing our Fortress tour we took an alternative route back to town, ever so grateful for the downhill walk. We strolled through town until dark and then retired early as the next day we were off to Graz.

Trini and I frolicking as we depart the fortress.

Having way too much fun.

Just one more photo.....